Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: K. Klis, T. Slater, 2010
Page Views: 325 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Jul 4, 2017 with updates from Brice Pollock and 1 other
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Follow the super crazy deep, beautiful, black runnel up to the anchor. Climbing on plates, slinging knobs and staying just off to the right of this main runnel.

Location

Around the corner on the east face of runnel vision wall, spot the deep runnel going up it. Start a little to the right above a short little boulder cliff and hop on!

Stay on the climber's trail till here 37.33548, -119.40881. From here you should be able to see the wall to your left.

Protection

Chicken heads all the way up, optional gear to 2" that you won't use. 2 bolt anchor w/rap rings (look left once about 30m up)

Photos

Does 5.7 get any better? Bomber Knob slings go in wherever you want them. IMO no need for other types of pro. Retrieving your rope can be iffy as the many plates and knobs can lead to tangle. Aug 19, 2017
ToDoubleD Whitney
Aptos, CA
 
ToDoubleD Whitney   Aptos, CA
 
The start was definitely the crux, both mentally and physically. A fall would be really bad stepping from the boulder onto the wall, but you can sling a knob and protect it. In fact leave the gear and just sling knobs the whole way up. The climbing eases off considerably after the first couple moves. Apr 4, 2018