Access may be closed
Many areas in The Southern Yosemite area including Shuteye have access roads that may be closed due to the recent 2020 fire season. Check with the local Forrest service before heading out there as you may get turned around at a locked gate and waste a day heading somewhere else.
Follow the super crazy deep, beautiful, black runnel up to the anchor. Climbing on plates, slinging knobs and staying just off to the right of this main runnel.
Around the corner on the east face of runnel vision wall, spot the deep runnel going up it. Start a little to the right above a short little boulder cliff and hop on!
Stay on the climber's trail till here 37.33548, -119.40881. From here you should be able to see the wall to your left.
Chicken heads all the way up, optional gear to 2" that you won't use. 2 bolt anchor w/rap rings (look left once about 30m up)