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Routes in The Dark Tower

Blackbird fly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diminishing Returns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dog's Bollocks, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stem It If You Get It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total · 8/month
Shared By: Will Beuttell on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climbs decent rock through the first four bolts then gets into somewhat scary terrain. The rock that the bolts are in seem fine but be careful as there seems to have been no cleaning during the route development. Much of what you might pull or stand on could come off.
Belayers should wear their helmet and be always aware of rocks coming down.

Location

Left of Dog's Bollocks.

Protection

Around 10 bolts to a rap hanger with a quick link and a normal hanger with a rap ring.

Photos

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karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.10 PG13
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.10 PG13
Adding to the cleaning comment. Although I commend the work that it took to put up the route, I feel it's irresponsible of the route developer to leave the route open to the public in the condition that we found it in. After Will sent it, I followed due to the poor state that the line was in. I cleaned handful after handful of stone choss from the lead climbing zone along the bolt line of this route while rapping down. There's still a lot of loose rock up there that ought to be tested with a small pry or rubber mallet to ensure safety. Please remember, if you are going to develop a route on public land, it's for the climbing community, not your FA. Jun 6, 2017
Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
 
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
 
Who was the developer of this route?
Some consideration and attempts towards cleaning the rotten rock is crucial to make this climb safe. Jun 4, 2017