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Routes in The Dark Tower

Blackbird fly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diminishing Returns S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dog's Bollocks, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stem It If You Get It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: T. Goss, E. Jones
Page Views: 251 total · 3/month
Shared By: ZachBradford on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Starts with a tricky traversing sequence involving long moves and hard to find feet. Eases up considerably after 20 feet.

If you are shorter this route may feel considerably harder than if you are a taller climber due to the feet available to use.

Location [Suggest Change]

Located on the right(south) side of the Dark Tower.
To reach the dark tower continue left on the trail after reaching the scree field. It is the only obvious tower.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts to Rap anchors

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Hard to read and scary to onsight. Blowing the 2nd, 3rd and even 4th clip could have serious consequences as the route traverses over rising talus.
Once you have the sequence figured out the climbing is great with long moves and an unexpected variety of holds.
This line and its neighbor to the left have the best rock at the Running Scared wall, reminiscent of the Jungle (same rock band?) May 28, 2015
Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
  5.11b PG13
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
  5.11b PG13
Stick clipping the second bolt is a great idea.
Mistakes could have you swinging into the right side of the cliff.

Definitely not a climb to be done if your red point limit is in the 11s or while climbing with an inexperienced belayer.
A proud onsight. Jun 4, 2017

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