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Routes in 3-Giétroz

Hole Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left-facing Corner Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 105 ft
FA: TR Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 100 total, 17/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variety of interesting moves in different rock situations.

Up the corner to a ledge, then up a gully with grass and rocks (or see Variation 1). Next step right from gully onto rock buttress, and climb up a vertical crack on left side of buttress. Next into a gully of big rocks (or see Variation 20. Finish on right-facing corner with flakes higher up, to top of cliff about 25 feet right and below from big three-foot-diameter tree.

. Variation 1: (instead of climbing up the grass+rock gully) step right onto rock buttress and climb up a vertical crack almost to the crest of the buttress, then traverse left 8-10 feet almost to the gully and rejoin the main route in climbing up another vertical crack - (5.9).

. Variation 2: (instead of going into gully of big rocks) step across left onto ridge and up this to a slab face (with a tricky move 5.9+), then more positive holds to the top - (mostly 5.6-7 except one move).

warning: 60 meter rope is likely not long enough to lower off or rappel from top of route. Re-check rope length and make sure to tie a knot in the other end of the rope so climber does not drop off before reaching the ground.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Left-facing corner about 25 feet left downhill from big right-facing corner with big hole in bottom.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use the big tree with three-foot-diameter trunk at the top of the cliff as anchor, together with some directional.

But using an anchor near the top of the cliff for Top-Roping in the usual way with belay from the bottom would be dangerous while climbing near the ground, because of the large amount of rope-stretch. So use a special "semi-static" rope with much less stretch than a normal dynamic climbing rope - (or perhaps the belayer could keep the climber under constant strong tension).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gietroz sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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