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Routes in 3-Giétroz

Hole Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left-facing Corner Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 110 ft
FA: TR Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 38 total, 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

warning: Before anyone climbs this route again, first must have loose rock cleaned on rappel with no one else anywhere near underneath.

Interesting moves in variety of rock situations.

Up the corner, then up a L-trending gully with fun flakes. Next traverse R onto L-trending buttress, and go up on L side, then on the arete of the buttress. Finish by stepping L onto ledge. (not tested: finish straight up on buttress above).

warning: 60 meter rope is likely not long enough to lower off or rappel from top of route. Re-check rope length and make sure to tie a knot in the other end of the rope so climber does not drop off before reaching the ground.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Big right-facing corner with hole at bottom -- with detached leaning flake about five feet high and a foot wide.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use the big tree with three-foot-diameter trunk at the top of the cliff as anchor, together with some directional.

But using an anchor near the top of the cliff for Top-Roping in the usual way with belay from the bottom would be dangerous while climbing near the ground, because of the large amount of rope-stretch. So use a special "semi-static" rope with much less stretch than a normal dynamic climbing rope - (or perhaps the belayer could keep the climber under constant strong tension).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gietroz sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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