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Routes in 3-Talsky

Hole Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hole Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left-facing Corner Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 38 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variety of interesting moves.

Mount the leaning flake, next up the face (arete is on) to a ledge. Next trend left a bit, and up on fun flakes to reach left-trending ridge, and along crest of ridge to meet the next route to the left.

warning: 60 meter rope is likely not long enough to lower off or rappel from top of this climb, if continue on another route to top of cliff. Re-check rope length and make sure to tie a knot in the other end of the rope so climber does not drop off before reaching the ground.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

On face next to big right-facing corner with hole at bottom -- with detached leaning flake about five feet high and a foot wide.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use the big tree with three-foot-diameter trunk at the top of the cliff as anchor, together with some directional.

But using an anchor near the top of the cliff for Top-Roping in the usual way with belay from the bottom would be dangerous while climbing near the ground, because of the large amount of rope-stretch. So use a special "semi-static" rope with much less stretch than a normal dynamic climbing rope - (or perhaps the belayer could keep the climber under constant strong tension).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Talsky sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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