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Routes in 5 - Bee Cave

A Climb Called Quest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
All Choked Up S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cream Filling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dragged Out and Dusted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Empty Nest Syndrome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Honey Seeker S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hood Love S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Life in Color S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Saxophone Potluck S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stranglehoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tammy Birkenstock Rides Again S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unicorn Infestation S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Veganator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Tiffany Bertelsen - May 2017
Page Views: 340 total, 47/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 13, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The Bee Cave Project finally lives.

This stellar climb was an open project for over 15 years. It stayed a project mainly due to the fact that the large pod at the base of the roof has been home to several large bee colonies over the years. Despite several climbers' efforts to thwart the bees, mainly with expanding foam application, the bees won out keeping suitors at bay.

Just over a year ago the bees up and moved out.

In January of this year, after looking at this climb and it's steep set of fixed draws for years I dove in: first replacing suspect bolts, upgrading all of the fixed draws, removing the foam from the 'bee pod', getting rid of a number of glued holds that were not needed, working out the amazing crux section, and finally even extending the climb an additional 25 feet as there was good climbing to be had above the original anchor location.

This climb is a gift that keeps on giving and gets your attention right off the ground with a blind reach to a pocket/ ledge off of a bad left hand just as the angle kicks in. Dispatch this initial boulder problem and climb large pockets and tufa pinches to the base of the roof where you get a nice no hands rest just before launching into a crux feet first sequence that spans the entire roof and will leave an ear to ear grin on your face. Rest up briefly before attacking a relentless headwall on sloper crimps, awkward pinches, large cross moves, and high feet that will make you wish you hadn't ditched your yoga practice.

When it's all over soak in the view. You just climbed one of the best hard sport pitches in Southern Arizona and there isn't another climber in sight.

Location

Straight out the Bee Cave.

Protection

12 fixed draws to lower-offs.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Angel, I have been watching the bees all summer, and I think they are just after water that is still seeping from the hole in question. I have been up to the hole n multiple occasions and the bees are very docile in general and there are far fewer than it appears. I still think we may try and come up with a solution to keep them out. Cory and I researched some products that are natural and keep bees from returning. Worth a shot anyhow. Thanks for the update. Dec 2, 2017
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
It looks like the bees are starting to next on the Bee hole again :-(!! Dec 1, 2017
Nice Luke! Sweet looking line. May 31, 2017
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
Congratulations on the Send! May 17, 2017
Nice going Luke! That is awesome! May 14, 2017
JoeS  
Impressive route! Great send Luke. May 14, 2017