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Routes in Illumination Rock

Iron Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4 PG13
March Madness T WI4-5
Rime Dog 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4
SE Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M4- R
Skylight T M5 PG13
West Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 R
Type: Trad, Mixed, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 143 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kyle Tarry on Apr 30, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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2 pitches of fun, varied, and exposed mixed climbing on the lesser visited face of Illumination Rock. First pitch meanders up ramps and corners (fun AI3+ and neve when we climbed it). Second pitch ascends a short (~15') dihedral with some strenuous mixed moves, then heads towards the skylight. There is one bolt at the base of the skylight section, then move up and over the bulge (crux) and emerge onto the summit ridge.

We found limited protection through both of the crux sections on the 2nd pitch, especially pulling the bulge right below the skylight, which made these sections a puckerfest. Protection probably varies significantly with conditions.


Route climbs to the right of the two summit ridge skylights visible from the north side. From Illumination Saddle, traverse steep snow along the north face for 100-150, past the prominent toe of rock into a mild amphitheater of sorts. The skylight is clearly visible from the base of the route. Depending on conditions and season, the guidebook first pitch may be buried in snow/neve.

In theory there is rap tat on the summit ridge, but it may be buried under many feet of rime. We rapped off a bollard on the summit ridge, and then used the existing rap station (2 pins and cord) to climbers left of the skylight. Double 70s gets you to the base from the second station.


Alpine mixed rack; 4-6 screws, small set of nuts & hexes, single cams 0.5-2, a couple pins.



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