Type: Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jerry and Sigrid Anderson
Page Views: 468 total · 24/month
Shared By: Cory Brooks on Apr 29, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An enjoyable moderate excursion up the right side slabs of Chiquito Dome. A combination of well protected climbing and comfortable belay stances make this an excellent route for the neophyte multi-pitch leader.

P1 - Locate the first bolt and launch up the slab. This is the crux pitch, but difficulties are short, and the climbing is well protected. Veer right to the belay. 5.8+

P2 - Head up right to the arete by-passing the roof. A long pitch. 5.8

P3 - Climb a short 5.7 crack

P4 -Climb up an easy slab. 5.2 Optional - Rap from the end of this with 2 x 60 meter ropes

P5 - 3rd/4th class slab to the top of the dome. Gear belay. Walk off

Location

Take a right when you reach the base of the slab from the approach trail. Walk over to the right. Find the first bolt to the right of a obvious black streak.

Protection

12 draw. Single set of cams to 2"

Photos

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Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.9
This route has 5.9 in Grahm's guide to Shuteye; I think the crux moves on p.1 are just that. Not sure where the 5.8 came from... Great route, well protected, nice variety on each pitch. Oct 7, 2018
Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
  5.8
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
  5.8
Disagree, it's 5.8. want a real 5.9 slab, try climbing Wandering Taoist at Tollhouse. Do that, then come back and tell me I'd you still think this climb is 5.9 Oct 7, 2018 · Temporary Report