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Routes in Alcove Right
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Matinee T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Premier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rattle Snake Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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U Name It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.62754, -109.6732 |
| FA: | Joe Stern, Michelle Leber, 3/21/2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,000 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Stern on Mar 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Access Issue: Climbing in this area is closed from April 1 - August 15 for bighorn sheep lambing.
Details
Description
A few stemming moves get you situated under the initial roof. Pull through the 0.75s roof to a rest, followed by bouldery moves getting through the crack switch. Next is splitter 0.4s with feet, with a slightly thinner crux at the top (save a 0.3) to reach the hand jam pods. Anchor on the right.
This is one of the better splitter finger cracks around town. It reminded me of Proudest Monkey in Long Canyon in terms of quality and difficulty.
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