Type: Trad, 39 ft
FA: Mike and Janelle Anderson 2003
Page Views: 81 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Fun, short route with a sunny aspect.

Start with a steep pull of the deck with smooth feet. Crimp the crispy patina edges then relax as your feet catch up.

Couple body length to the first bolt. Take care.

Clip the first bolt, up on nice face moves, clip second bolt then head up for a run to the juggies.

Location

Located on the narrow, due south face of the formation. Nice flat staging area.

Rappel route (or, one of the other routes).

Protection

Two lead bolts down low.

I believe there's now a two bolt anchor on the route. Originally, pro could be had whilst heading to the summit of the formation (1-3 Camalot or equivalent).

Photos

Corey Beinhart
Boise, ID
  5.8
Corey Beinhart   Boise, ID
  5.8
An...interesting route. Starts off with two bolts on a fairly featureless slabby face - the moves here are interesting and quite difficult but short-lived. After this just run it to the top of the formation. The climbing is low fifth-class on huge jugs, but it doesn't take a whole lot of protection; the cracks are dirty and flaring with no real alternatives. I was comfortable with the climbing and just ran it out to the anchor at the top of the formation. Though, the guide says this is mixed, placing pro at the top would definitely be a largely mental decision.
From here, I'd recommend rapping over Ring of Fire to the left of the anchors, as my rope got stuck in the large split when I was rapping the actual route.
To be honest, I wouldn't really recommend this route - it just happened to be too cold the day I was there to do the longer stuff and didn't have enough time by the time it was warm enough. Nov 25, 2018