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Early Access
Routes in North End Pinnacle
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Borderline Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keyhole Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Punk Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ziggy Stardust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.87444, -104.8804 |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio & Larry Kledzik, Winter 1981 |
| Page Views: | 837 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Nov 2, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 seasonal raptor closure info
Details
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & its various faces:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
New as of 2018: this formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in this formation, the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-5
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
As of 7/1/24: this route is permanently closed.
Climb potholes up to a small bulge with a fixed ring angle piton and a large, rusted screw-link. Continue through the crux, using the crack-like feature (no jams here), and gain the large pothole and flake above. Easier climbing takes you to the ridge.
Location
This is located right of Ziggy Stardust on the West face of the North End Pinnacle of Keyhole Rock. Access it by scrambling up the ramp/gully below these routes, or climb Keyhole Route. (The FA info was taken from Rolofson's Soft Touch III guide.)
Protection
I placed a #1 then a #3 Camalot prior to clipping the pin. These both seemed ok, but who knows? Above the pin, I placed a red C3, followed by a #2 Camalot. I built an anchor at the ridge using 1/2"-3/4" pieces (cams and nut). We then traversed North on the ridge and down to the fixed anchor at the top of Borderline Direct and FingerBanger and rappelled 60' off the East side. You might also be able to go South along the Ridge and ultimately downclimb/walk off, but I'm not sure about this. This route may deserve a PG-13 rating, as it's a bit scary getting to the first pin, but at least it's solid.
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