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Routes in Wine Bottle

Break Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carbonic Acid Trip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Wall, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Ending S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helsinki Massacre, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Infernal Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irresistible S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kou Men S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Miracle of Lankou, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 5.7 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Opica S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shu Ba Jie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summit No. 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watered Whine S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's the Jug? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Li Shu, Lu Bin 05/2002
Page Views: 45 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Access Issues Details

Description

The bolts on this route are rusty and almost certainly of dubious integrity! The hangers appear to be stainless, but the bolt heads are fully rusted.

Start up the monster holds until they suddenly disappear. Get your fingers behind a flake then step left. Continue up slopey holds on the slab with a bit of runout. At the ledge, move left and climb up behind the flake. A stupid number of anchors here, none of which will keep you from hitting the ledge - but it's super easy! Good bolts at the anchor on the ledge above.

There is a second pitch to this that goes at 5.9, but since the 2nd pitch of Red Wall is also the same grade, climbs the same wall on better rock, and has solid bolts, you shouldn't even consider climbing it.

Location

Left side of the main face, wanders up the slab and behind the huge detached flake

Protection

Rusty bolts!

Photos

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