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Routes in Wine Bottle
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Break Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carbonic Acid Trip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Wall, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Ending S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helsinki Massacre, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hidden Gem S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Infernal Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Irresistible S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kou Men S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Miracle of Lankou, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Name 5.7 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Opica S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shu Ba Jie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit No. 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tension S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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wailing wall, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Watered Whine S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's the Jug? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 24.7456, 110.4935 |
| FA: | Li Shu, Lu Bin 05/2002 |
| Page Views: | 674 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Access Issues
Details
Theres been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they dont own. Unfortunately its flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/
Description
The bolts on this route are rusty and almost certainly of dubious integrity! The hangers appear to be stainless, but the bolt heads are fully rusted.
Start up the monster holds until they suddenly disappear. Get your fingers behind a flake then step left. Continue up slopey holds on the slab with a bit of runout. At the ledge, move left and climb up behind the flake. A stupid number of anchors here, none of which will keep you from hitting the ledge - but it's super easy! Good bolts at the anchor on the ledge above.
There is a second pitch to this that goes at 5.9, but since the 2nd pitch of Red Wall is also the same grade, climbs the same wall on better rock, and has solid bolts, you shouldn't even consider climbing it.
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