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Routes in Wine Bottle

Break Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carbonic Acid Trip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Wall, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Ending S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helsinki Massacre, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Infernal Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irresistible S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kou Men S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Miracle of Lankou, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 5.7 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Opica S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shu Ba Jie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summit No. 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watered Whine S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's the Jug? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tuzi, Xiao Lu, A Niu 12/2007
Page Views: 162 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Access Issues Details

Description

Quite the squeeze job, but a wonderful route nonetheless. Start up a slight left-facing dihedral and pull fun moves up to a big hole. A tricky sequence here to small crimps and then a good rest. The pump continues through big holds and gymnastic moves to a set of chalked holds along a slopey horizontal. Find the ones you want, pull up to a spike-edge, and crux to the jugs. Keep it together through the last bit and a small runout as you pull up to the ledge.

Heinous for the grade!

Location

Middle of the wall, left of a black streak, right of a small roof.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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