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Infernal Affairs
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
Routes in Wine Bottle
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Break Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carbonic Acid Trip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Wall, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Ending S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Helsinki Massacre, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hidden Gem S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Infernal Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Irresistible S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kou Men S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Miracle of Lankou, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Name 5.7 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Opica S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Wall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shu Ba Jie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summit No. 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tension S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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wailing wall, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Watered Whine S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's the Jug? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 24.7456, 110.4935 |
| FA: | Tuzi, Xiao Lu, A Niu 12/2007 |
| Page Views: | 879 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Sep 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Access Issues
Details
Theres been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they dont own. Unfortunately its flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here: yangshuoaccess.org/
Description
Quite the squeeze job, but a wonderful route nonetheless. Start up a slight left-facing dihedral and pull fun moves up to a big hole. A tricky sequence here to small crimps and then a good rest. The pump continues through big holds and gymnastic moves to a set of chalked holds along a slopey horizontal. Find the ones you want, pull up to a spike-edge, and crux to the jugs. Keep it together through the last bit and a small runout as you pull up to the ledge.
Heinous for the grade!
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