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Routes in The Serpent's Tooth

Wild West Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Brian Prince, Vitaliy Musiyenko. sep. 2015
Page Views: 437 total, 30/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details


Obvious leaning splitter system. Burly crack climbing in a truly amazing setting. Possible to do in a big day from a Hamilton Lake bascecamp. See approach photo.

P1 - After roping up when the approach gets steep, gain the obvious balcony type ledge at the bottom of the splitter. Working to it from the right seemed the safest. One bolt + #2 anchor on top of ledge.

P2 - Boulder problem start leads to a long crack/ramp/corner. Climb past a couple bolts and gain a nice ledge. (5.11/5.8R 50m)

P3 - Continue up corner to a stance (5.10+ 30m)

P4 - Continue up corner to a blocky area at the base of the business (5.11- 40m)

P5 - A very steep handcrack in the corner leads to a rest below the slot. Plug a #5 in there deep and then it's chicken wing dyno time. Very Wild. Like the Harding slot, only harder... yup. If you're really tiny, you might be able to squeeze in early and skip the crux. For most, there's an amazing flake on the face that helps you to go around the tight entrance. Once inside, pass a couple bolts in the squeeze and belay on huge ledge. (5.11+, 30m)

P6 - Short face leads to the top of the summit pinnacle.

Descent - One 30m rap from the huge ledge below the summit off a new single bolt.


Doubles to #3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6 optional