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Wild West Crack

5.11+, Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Brian Prince, Vitaliy Musiyenko. sep. 2015
California > Sequoia & Kings… > Hamilton Lakes… > Serpent's Tooth
Warning Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Obvious leaning splitter system from bottom to top. Burly crack climbing in a truly amazing setting. Such a unique route capped by one of the wildest pitches imaginable, let alone deep in the backcountry. Possible to do in a big day from a Hamilton Lake bascecamp. See approach photo.

P1 - After roping up when the approach gets steep, gain the obvious balcony type ledge at the bottom of the splitter. Working to it from the right seemed the safest. One bolt + #2 anchor on top of ledge.

P2 - Boulder problem start leads to a long crack/ramp/corner. Climb past a couple bolts and gain a nice ledge. (5.11/5.8R 50m)

P3 - Continue up corner to a stance (5.10+ 30m)

P4 - Continue up the corner with some big moves between good jams to a blocky area at the base of the business (5.11- 40m)

P5 - A very steep and awkward handcrack in the corner leads to a rest below the slot. Plug a #5 in there deep and then it's chicken wing dyno time. Very Wild. Like the Harding slot, only harder... yup. If you're really tiny, you might be able to squeeze in early and skip the crux. For most, there's an amazing flake on the face that helps you to go around the tight entrance. Once inside, pass a couple bolts in the squeeze and belay on huge ledge. (5.11++, 30m)

P6 - Short face leads to the top of the summit pinnacle.

Descent - One 30m rap from the huge ledge below the summit off a new single bolt.

Protection

Doubles to #3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6 optional

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

pure craziness
[Hide Photo] pure craziness
an insanely hard handcrack in the corner, slot looming above.
[Hide Photo] an insanely hard handcrack in the corner, slot looming above.
4th pitch
[Hide Photo] 4th pitch
From the base
[Hide Photo] From the base
2nd pitch
[Hide Photo] 2nd pitch
summit
[Hide Photo] summit
3rd pitch. great jamming here
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch. great jamming here