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Routes in (2) London Tower

Henry VIII S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 153 total, 10/month
Shared By: Serge Smirnov on Sep 5, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Loose and fragile, should not be climbed when there are people freely roaming the base area.

Two things mitigate the dangerousness of this route:

1) It goes diagonally left, so the belayer can be positioned out of the path of most rocks dislodged by the leader.

2) The hardest part - first ~20' - is relatively solid.

Loose rock at the anchor - first person down should move away or hide under a roof before signaling "off rapppel", and the second person to rappel should avoid moving their feet until then.

I cannot in good conscience recommend this route - it is not the kind of route people come to Smith for - but I enjoyed the "crappy alpine rock" adventure in a low-commitment setting with bolt protection.

Location

Start in the shade behind a tree.

Protection

10-12 bolts

2-rope rappel (45m)

Photos

There are two reasons to suffer through this route:
  • The view from the anchor is undeniably great
  • To try and reach the Walk On The Wild Side arete.

Last time I tried pitch 2 was October 2 years ago... got 3 or 4 bolts up basically stemming up the chimney but trying to gain the face and reach the solid rock above all I did was rain debris on my poor belayer and knock off every foothold I tried to weight. Finally aborted mission when the one useful sidepull started crinkling loudly. Sep 6, 2016