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Routes in Shark's Nose

Direct Northwest buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Southwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Tower Summit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joe Kelsey & David Loeks, 1974
Page Views: 275 total, 18/month
Shared By: Chris Walden on Aug 19, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder

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This route follows the distinct line up the right side of the north face from the col between Overhanging Tower and Shark's Nose. We found the climbing on Shark's Nose as good as any in the Cirque and followed the beta from the Bechtel guide book.

There are two options for descending off the North/South Shark Nose summits. From the North Summit follow the rap stations back down the NW Buttress (Thoroughfare route) approximately 5 of them. From the South Summit follow the obvious 4 raps south towards Block Tower. Both descents/raps can be done with a 60m rope.


The route starts at the notch between Overhanging Tower and Shark's Nose. From the notch move up a finger crack to a small ledge then work right and up to more ledges. Once you reach an obvious huge ledge after about 3 pitches you can join up with the NW Buttress 5.6 route to the summit.


Single alpine rack is sufficient to #3 (although we had doubles .4-#1)