Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shark's Nose

Direct Northwest buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Southwest Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NW Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Tower Summit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 120 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 717 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chris Walden on Aug 25, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Edit]

The start of the route begins after 1 rap down from the North Summit of Shark's Nose to a small ledge/ramp beneath. Then move up and over southeast to a huge ledge to begin the traverse to the South Tower.

P1 - Belay from the large ledge and traverse across the ridge connecting to the South tower. You should find yourself on the west side of the ridge as you hit the crux an exposed burly boulder problem (2-3 moves). After these moves you gain access to a higher ridge with a decent belay spot.

P2 - You can sling the horn and/or build an anchor from the crack on the east side of the ridge. Rope drag will probably dictate this being one or two pitches. From here things ease off about 50' to the summit.

Descent:
From the summit take the raps down to the col between Shark Nose and Block Tower (60m works.) On the traverse we felt these raps here and on Block Tower were the jankiest of them all.

Location [Edit]

After one rap from the North Summit of Shark's Nose take the obvious ramp up to the ridge system southeast to the ridge connecting the South Summit.

Protection [Edit]

Standard alpine rack to #3

Photos

0 Comments

More About South Tower Summit

Printer-Friendly