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Routes in Shark's Nose

Direct Northwest buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Southwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Tower Summit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,048 total · 15/month
Shared By: ChadOfUtah Whittaker on Aug 1, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

P1-2 (5.5): Follow Thoroughfare route past the steep crack up to the end of the ramp. See book for thoroughfare description.

P3 (5.6): Climb steep corner and move right (5.6) around large rounded block onto NW deck/slab (airy after the block). Traverse horizontal cracks past a very large sloping deck (below and past rap anchor) onto small ledges and into a corner. Belay here. Note: after the large rounded block the climbing is easier but the traverse is difficult to protect for the second.

P4 (5.9): Start left in the corner up a finger crack in the dihedral then follow 5.8 hand cracks on the face, past an old pin and a small roof. Pull roof (5.7) and follow wandering 5.9 finger cracks to a nice ledge. Extra TCU's are nice here but the crack also accepts nuts well. Belay here or continue the route (5.4) to the summit. This pitch can be broken into two pitches if you belay in the small roof after ye ol' pin.

This was a thrilling climb. The 3rd and 4th pitches are on the W/NW faces which are sheer walls with a thousand feet of air below! Spectacular finger cracks with a great view.

Location

Descent: rap Thoroughfare. The rap is awkward, we started with two ropes but a single 60 was more manageable.

Protection

rack up to a #3 camalot, extra TCUÂ’s for the 4th pitch.

Photos

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