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Routes in Flange Buttress

Fiddlesticks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Precarious T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967
Page Views: 63 total, 4/month
Shared By: skye h on Aug 6, 2016 with updates
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Description:

This is the prominent big corner on Flange Buttress and is probably the best of the few quality easier climbs on the Pipes. With good pro and a sunny aspect, this is a good intro to trad Mt. Wellington climbing, including the need to test holds and not pull on anything blindly.

  • P1. 30m Up the corner using a variety of techniques, belaying in the notch on the L. Beware of some big loose flakes.
  • P2. 25m Climb the flakes on the wall above and step R across the void to follow the main crack line to a chimney-groove. Either follow this or more pleasantly, the face on the left, up to a belay on a large ledge.

DBB anchors on wall to right above Brown Madonna require 50m rap to base, unless you continue up another pitch to the top (rarely done these days) and do a long walk off. - David Stephenson 2017

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