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Routes in Back Alley

Alternative Finish S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fallen Flake Runout S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grey Wave S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Move Wonder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Outta Sight S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Caroline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sweet Hole S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vandalism Deception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 39 ft
FA: Mike Lewis and Alain Dallaire - Fall 2009
Page Views: 32 total, 2/month
Shared By: Vincent larochelle on Jul 23, 2016
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Description

  • * Submitted by Alex Weber **

This climb is seriously awful. My vote for worst climb in the Yukon.
Starts with a funny mantle. Maybe you crawl into the chimney... but the first bolt is way out left... so that doesn't make much sense.
Ok fine. You're standing on a good ledge and clip the first bolt. Second bolt is just above. Not too bad to get there, but where do you go now? The third bolt is straight up, and run-out. You can head left on some small features... or straight up on very difficult moves... but either way, you risk falling quite a ways down.
Or you head far right, into the chimney. Why?! From here it's pretty easy to get to the third bolt. Finishing is also tricky. How was this originally rated a 5.8?

Protection

4 bolts. Two expansion bolt top anchors. One has a d-link. The other does not.

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