Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Martin Lehner, Andreas Perren 2000|
|Page Views:||1,683 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Furman on Jul 5, 2016|
|Admins:||Dan Flynn, Mark P.|
P1 - 4b, short warmup pitch (~25m). Unclear why this is 4b.
P2 - 3b, longer, fun (~40m)
P3 - 4a, short, tricky, and exposed traverse. 3 bolts
P4 - 3c, easy ladder climb
P5 - 4b, vertical crack / lieback with nice feet. But just 3 bolts (that I found).
P6 - 4a, corner, then slab. Tricky route finding as first bolts are high. Crux, despite grade. The numerous stuck nuts and cams left behind are evidence.
To find final anchor, don't go straight for the peak, but instead look right around a corner.
To get to this climb you will be following a loose trail clockwise around the Riffelhorn, looking for blue signs that mark the path. Topos in Filidor Plaisir West are illustrative, but you might still want some specifics:
1st Sign: "Routen Riffel Sud" 45.98140 N, 7.76262 E
Second to last: "Egg ^ Kante >" 45.98057 N, 7.75883 E
With those 2 you should be able to use the Plaisir map to find your way.
Descent east off the peak involved 3 vertical rappels, all with a single 60m rope. ~15m, ~25m, ~10m.
All anchors (except the top) had chains linking the bolts. The chains looked thin for rapping, but ok. All belay stations were comfortable and roomy enough for 4 (though top of pitch 3 was tight).
PG13 rating if you use draws alone.