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Egg

5.5, Sport, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Martin Lehner, Andreas Perren 2000
International > Europe > Switzerland > Oberwallis (Upp… > Zermatt area > Riffelhorn

Description

This is the furthest climb on the south face of the Riffelhorn. 6 pitches of relatively easy but great climbing on hard gneiss. Stunning views of the Matterhorn, Gorner Glacier, and numerous other peaks. Handholds are consistently bomber (except perhaps the last pitch) but the rock itself is fairly slippery. All pitches felt runout, not the typical "plaisir" bolting style of Switzerland. Indeed, route finding was tricky, giving this route a nice Alpine feel.

P1 - 4b, short warmup pitch (~25m). Unclear why this is 4b.
P2 - 3b, longer, fun (~40m)
P3 - 4a, short, tricky, and exposed traverse. 3 bolts
P4 - 3c, easy ladder climb
P5 - 4b, vertical crack / lieback with nice feet. But just 3 bolts (that I found).
P6 - 4a, corner, then slab. Tricky route finding as first bolts are high. Crux, despite grade. The numerous stuck nuts and cams left behind are evidence.

To find final anchor, don't go straight for the peak, but instead look right around a corner.

Location

The approach was a bigger challenge than the climbing (especially with small kids) as this is the furthest climb from the train station. Relatively sketchy traverses on smoothly polished gneiss with few handholds. To improve safety there are large nails which you can drape a travel rope over (see photos), as well as a few bolts.

To get to this climb you will be following a loose trail clockwise around the Riffelhorn, looking for blue signs that mark the path. Topos in Filidor Plaisir West are illustrative, but you might still want some specifics:

1st Sign: "Routen Riffel Sud" 45.98140 N, 7.76262 E
Second to last: "Egg ^ Kante >" 45.98057 N, 7.75883 E

With those 2 you should be able to use the Plaisir map to find your way.

Descent east off the peak involved 3 vertical rappels, all with a single 60m rope. ~15m, ~25m, ~10m.

Protection

We took 10 draws + 2 alpine draws for traverse protection of multiple followers. If I did it again I would bring a few small cams (BD 0.4-1) since most pitches were runout. Lots of opportunities to put pro.

All anchors (except the top) had chains linking the bolts. The chains looked thin for rapping, but ok. All belay stations were comfortable and roomy enough for 4 (though top of pitch 3 was tight).

PG13 rating if you use draws alone.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of two climbers on "Egg" taken from Thermometeregg - with the Matterhorn in the backgound
[Hide Photo] View of two climbers on "Egg" taken from Thermometeregg - with the Matterhorn in the backgound
Second section of tricky traverse on the approach to "Egg".  Not easy with small ones, but manageable with the spikes and bolts.
[Hide Photo] Second section of tricky traverse on the approach to "Egg". Not easy with small ones, but manageable with the spikes and bolts.
We made it!  Not an easy day for the little ones.
[Hide Photo] We made it! Not an easy day for the little ones.
The views really are something.
[Hide Photo] The views really are something.
Views of The Matterhorn were fantastic, when it came out from behind the clouds.
[Hide Photo] Views of The Matterhorn were fantastic, when it came out from behind the clouds.
My 10 year old on P3.  It had just started hailing, and the ice made interesting sounds bouncing off the helmets.
[Hide Photo] My 10 year old on P3. It had just started hailing, and the ice made interesting sounds bouncing off the helmets.
P3 Traverse.  More slippery and exposed than it looks here.
[Hide Photo] P3 Traverse. More slippery and exposed than it looks here.
I believe this is a view of "Kante" 5a, which follows an interesting low angle arete.
[Hide Photo] I believe this is a view of "Kante" 5a, which follows an interesting low angle arete.
Final blue sign that says you are very close...
[Hide Photo] Final blue sign that says you are very close...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Flynn
Northeast mostly
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding this climb, good to showcase the diversity of routes in Switz -- and pretty cool you took the whole family up! Jul 20, 2016
TravisJBurke
Beratzhausen, DEU
[Hide Comment] This may be one of the most accessible and fun multipitches for easy times in a gorgeous area. It is totally worth it for the views, and the climbing is actual climbing--not simply rock stepping. Easily and highly recommend. Sep 9, 2019
Climbnh
Lafayette, CO
[Hide Comment] The route can be done with a 40m rope without any simul climbing. Anchors are all bolted with chains. I would say to have good short rope skills if you're bringing inexperienced people or people that need confidence with the exposure Aug 15, 2021