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Routes in Voodoo Dome

All Along the Watchtower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brushmaster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainbow T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark and Shirley Spencer, Oct. 1988
Page Views: 231 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brandt Allen on Jul 1, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up an obvious ~20 ft. dihedral, at the top of which is a cruxy bulge. Continue up a short right-slanting crack to a small roof. The bottom of a long water runnel is on the right side of the roof. Climb a tricky move past the left side of the roof to a stance just right of a thick flake. One reachy move up and left gains the top of the flake (#4 Camalot protects this nicely). From there, yet another cruxy move from a right hand pocket leads up a right-slanting crack and to the water runnel. Easier climbing heads up to the top. Double-rope rappel from chain anchor.

Location

At the top of the approach trail go a little to the right and look for a deep dihedral with a long obvious water runnel above and right of it.

Protection

A good mix of gear from nuts to medium cams (doubles in #0.4 to #2 Camalots helpful). One each #3 and #4. Two-bolt chain anchor at the top.

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Brice Pollock
Oakland, CA
  5.9 PG13
Brice Pollock   Oakland, CA  
  5.9 PG13
Not sure how this is a 'classic' in the book. May 29, 2018
Trevor Bloom
Sausalito CA
Trevor Bloom   Sausalito CA
Upper 1/2 of climb is fun, but not worth it for how unsafe of a lead this is. Sep 4, 2018
tom donnelly
san diego
 
tom donnelly   san diego
 
Good pro if you look for it, and have plenty. Sep 26, 2018

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