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> Hwy 41: Fresno…
> Shuteye Ridge
> Big Sleep Area
> Voodoo Dome
All Along the Watchtower
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Voodoo Dome
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All Along the Watchtower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Amber T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bad Mama Jamma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brushmaster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown 10-, left side of Voodoo Right T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 10a, Voodoo Right, lower pillar, left arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Voodoo Child T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Voodoo Mamma T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Casey Yorkunas, Dave Lane, Anne Mellick, Mark Machezick 1998 |
| Page Views: | 878 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brice Pollock on May 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Staring into a slimy waterfall with a pool of water at the base, the route doesn't look too appealing, but the last 5.11 pitch is wild.
P1: (5.9+, 60m) Bypass the wet and get into the 6" offwidth. Struggle to the top.
P2: (5.8, 20m) Chickheads to roof
P3: (5.11b, 30m) Various cracks, starting with fingers, eventually widening to hands, and then a short traverse right to a ledge. After the ledge, you break out left for the last 10m of the route. Definitely not thin hands to the top. Gear was on the thinner side for this last section to the top, 0.3-0.75, mainly 0.5's though.
Might consider breaking it up into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (with the optional belay at a ledge). The drawn topo in the guidebook was on point, but the written description was quite off. Also, as of May 2018, there's a medium sized (the size of two stacked microwaves) block right at the lip of the ledge that rocks and should be avoided.
Descent:
We couldn't find the baked slings the guidebook alluded to, nor any rap anchors. We scrambled climber's right towards the trail that goes down the climber's left side of Voodoo Dome. There's a brief 4th class section to get to the trail. You may be able to sling a large knob to rap off, but we were concerned about getting the rope stuck.
P1: (5.9+, 60m) Bypass the wet and get into the 6" offwidth. Struggle to the top.
P2: (5.8, 20m) Chickheads to roof
P3: (5.11b, 30m) Various cracks, starting with fingers, eventually widening to hands, and then a short traverse right to a ledge. After the ledge, you break out left for the last 10m of the route. Definitely not thin hands to the top. Gear was on the thinner side for this last section to the top, 0.3-0.75, mainly 0.5's though.
Might consider breaking it up into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (with the optional belay at a ledge). The drawn topo in the guidebook was on point, but the written description was quite off. Also, as of May 2018, there's a medium sized (the size of two stacked microwaves) block right at the lip of the ledge that rocks and should be avoided.
Descent:
We couldn't find the baked slings the guidebook alluded to, nor any rap anchors. We scrambled climber's right towards the trail that goes down the climber's left side of Voodoo Dome. There's a brief 4th class section to get to the trail. You may be able to sling a large knob to rap off, but we were concerned about getting the rope stuck.
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