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Routes in 8. Kitty Corners
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Cake T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Catnip T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rolling in the Blanket TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Roxie T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tangling with Yarn TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14614, -74.16306 |
| FA: | TR Sharon + Ken Roberts, FFA Frank Bochanski & Zach Hyer |
| Page Views: | 773 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 21, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Lots of fun moves -- more if do the harder start.
Directional protection placement needed for Top-Roping.
Most interesting, but harder (5.5), is to start on the Left side of the arete, with a tricky two-hands move to step Right around the arete onto the gentler ramp face. Otherwise start in the small dirt gully just left of the stone bench.
Next up the ramp along the left side of the obvious left-trending corner, then straight to the top (and for the final fun move, be sure to at least get both hands up onto the top of the cliff).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
The arete which forms the right edge of a giant overhanging corner with small cave. Just left of a small dirt gully which is just left of a stone bench.
--> see on this route photo ...
Protection
Trad: Standard rack, big pieces helpful e.g. #4 C4.
Top-Roping: For ideas on how to set up top anchor, see the sector description page.
warning: Top-rope needs a directional protection placement (perhaps with long slings around a rock?)
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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