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Routes in Turtle Dome

Balding Bob Ain't So Bold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Tyme Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edge of Da-Light T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finding My Religion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Search of the Holy Rail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Juniper Tree T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump and Circumstance T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roof, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slappin Ze Bass S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Shannon 2me,Jason Hermanson. Wes Tschetter
Page Views: 190 total · 8/month
Shared By: ShanJ2me on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty, Andrew Gram

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Description [Edit]

I believe this route was a Dave Larsen project from the early 80's according to Black Hills Climbing Historian and climber Brent Kertzman-
Only one rusty 1/4" bolt existed above the first crack.
The wall faces south gets shade about 4 pm.
A long stick clip or easy 5.7 climbing will get you to the high first bolt . At the first crack a blue alien or a creative #4 stopper placement will give you confidence to reach the 2ond bolt-
The next two bolts is the Business- you just may
(Find Your Religion)
The second crack will take anything from a .75 to a #3 cammalot.

Location [Edit]

This slabalicious route is about 100' to the climbers left of Losing My Religion on a seporate wall
There is a very large boulder right in front of the start
Look for a very high first bolt and two cracks that cut through the face- they form a " less than sign" <

Protection [Edit]

Small stoppers-blue alien-#3 cammalot
4 bolts
2 bolt chain anchors

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