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Routes in Harrison Peak

South Face Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 694 total, 40/month
Shared By: Nick Sweeney on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Romp up the clean, white granite on the South Face of Harrison peak that travels up the obvious large weakness of the face.

Location

On the South Face of Harrison Peak, heading up the right side of a white granite streak. The crux layback is obvious at the top.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Kyle McCrohan
  5.7+
Kyle McCrohan  
  5.7+
Some more beta:

Approach: weave through the campsites to the north end of Harrison Lake. Take the well marked trail up the ridge and towards the SW ridge of Harrison peak. When you enter a large boulder field and are nearing the SW ridge, take a right and traverse towards the south face, maintaining elevation. You'll pick up on another more faint climbers trail that leads you to the start of the route.

Pitch 1 and 2: mostly a choose your own adventure, pretty easy to keep under 5.6 with a few 5.6+ moves. Just slabby, finger cracks, and a little balancy. We started up the corner system where the dark rock meets the light rock, trending right slightly where the grade lessens (good place to end pitch 1). Lots of snags to build anchors on.

Pitch 3: look up to see a splitter hand crack to the right of the obvious notch. Below it to and slightly to the left see a piton. Climb to the piton and then up the thin handcrack. From there, traverse left into the notch. Ascend the short lieback and you'll find yourself at the top of the route. Beware of rope drag.

Descent: Not sure if we did this right, but we basically just descended the east ridge through boulder fields, then thin brush and finally heavier brush before reaching the trail. We trended downwards and skiiers right as we went. After we found the trail, it became obvious that there were more defined climbers trails we had missed, but it's hard to find those things on descent. I think if you stay more skier's right in the upper bobulderfields you might find more established trails down.

Time: 1:45 approach, 2:30 climbing, 1:30 descent. So about 6 hrs car to car.

Gear: we brought a rack of nuts, 5 tricams, doubles .4-1, singles .3, 2, and 3. We didn't really even use the 2 and 3. We also didn't need the doubles, although they were nice, because the tricams were lighter doubles and there are lots of nut opportunities, but I guess it just depends on your comfort level running it out. Definitely bring lots of slings to sling snags and rocks.

Overall: fun climb, pitch 3 is money, climbing is thoughtful but never too difficult. An easy approach and beautiful views. Hard to find anything to dislike. Aug 28, 2017