Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,394 total · 46/month
Shared By: Nick Sweeney on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Romp up the clean, white granite on the South Face of Harrison peak that travels up the obvious large weakness of the face.

Location

On the South Face of Harrison Peak, heading up the right side of a white granite streak. The crux layback is obvious at the top.

Protection

Single rack .3-3 with doubles of .3-.75. Nuts.

Photos

Kyle McCrohan
Brier, WA
  5.7+
Kyle McCrohan   Brier, WA
  5.7+
Some more beta:

Approach: weave through the campsites to the north end of Harrison Lake. Take the well marked trail up the ridge and towards the SW ridge of Harrison peak. When you enter a large boulder field and are nearing the SW ridge, take a right and traverse towards the south face, maintaining elevation. You'll pick up on another more faint climbers trail that leads you to the start of the route.

Pitch 1 and 2: mostly a choose your own adventure, pretty easy to keep under 5.6 with a few 5.6+ moves. Just slabby, finger cracks, and a little balancy. We started up the corner system where the dark rock meets the light rock, trending right slightly where the grade lessens (good place to end pitch 1). Lots of snags to build anchors on.

Pitch 3: look up to see a splitter hand crack to the right of the obvious notch. Below it to and slightly to the left see a piton. Climb to the piton and then up the thin handcrack. From there, traverse left into the notch. Ascend the short lieback and you'll find yourself at the top of the route. Beware of rope drag.

Descent: Not sure if we did this right, but we basically just descended the east ridge through boulder fields, then thin brush and finally heavier brush before reaching the trail. We trended downwards and skiiers right as we went. After we found the trail, it became obvious that there were more defined climbers trails we had missed, but it's hard to find those things on descent. I think if you stay more skier's right in the upper bobulderfields you might find more established trails down.

Time: 1:45 approach, 2:30 climbing, 1:30 descent. So about 6 hrs car to car.

Gear: we brought a rack of nuts, 5 tricams, doubles .4-1, singles .3, 2, and 3. We didn't really even use the 2 and 3. We also didn't need the doubles, although they were nice, because the tricams were lighter doubles and there are lots of nut opportunities, but I guess it just depends on your comfort level running it out. Definitely bring lots of slings to sling snags and rocks.

Overall: fun climb, pitch 3 is money, climbing is thoughtful but never too difficult. An easy approach and beautiful views. Hard to find anything to dislike. Aug 28, 2017
To add to Kyle's beta:
Disclaimer: I'm new to trad, so take this for what it's worth.

I didn't trust any of the snags up there for anchors, they are dead and you can move them with a gentle nudge.

On the approach, definitely stay ON TOP of the ridge to the east of Harrison Lake. Kyle's approach beta is spot on. We started up the ridge, then our trail petered out, so we took to sidehilling off trail and it was a lot of extra work. On the way back we stayed on top of the ridge and it was easily 2-3x quicker. We did not find the trails that well-marked this season.

Pitch 1: We just about ran out a 60m rope on the 1st pitch before I found a crack I felt comfortable building an anchor in. It was below and to the left of a big flake, decent stance for 2 ppl. I felt like protection was pretty sparse on this pitch but the climbing was easy.

Pitch 2: Mostly easy climbing, much shorter than the first pitch, more opportunities for protection. Ended at a largish snag beside another awesome crack below and left of a flake.

Pitch 3: Unlike Kyle, I stayed to the left of the piton. Still felt like 5.7/5.8. The crux moves are very protectable, which was awesome. This pitch was also pretty short. Topped out and anchored to a couple of small live trees and a large loose block about 20ft from the edge to bring up the second and third. You might be able to build an anchor closer to the top of the route for less rope drag.

Gear: We brought a full double rack to be on the safe side (Mastercam 0-4, BD 0.3, 0.4, 0.5-3 x 2. We used our #2 and #3 (might not have needed doubles in these though), and I would not leave them behind if I were to climb it again. Sep 10, 2018