Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: R. Green, M. Kubiak, K. Nystrom 1984
Page Views: 1,450 total · 16/month
Shared By: EG Lunceford on Mar 17, 2018
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A scrappy, direct finish that will have you contemplating the meaning of 5.9 

 back clean your first piece to reduce drag. the rope also has a tendency to get jammed in a crack at the first roof. Just place a piece there and the rope won’t slide in as easily if at all.

Location Suggest change

After P2 you move up past the horn and the lay back crack until you reach a comfortable stance at the route divergence. Find the side pull and step out left until you can grab the arete. A Lost Arrow piton used to be in the small horizontal crack which now protects with a black tricam or a .3 totem.   

From there you continue to move up a steep series of roofs.  There’s a nice little alcove to rest in before the last few moves take you up a finger crack. 

Belay off slung blocks. 

Protection Suggest change

Small-medium stoppers and doubles from 00-1 There are three LA pitons as well.
A fourth piton used to protect the initial, Spicy traverse move but if you have a .3 totem or similar cam with a narrow head width, that might work too. Consider a black tricam. 

Photos

loading