Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1994, Patrick and Mary Purcell
Page Views: 134 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This was a long-forgotten route, and is a gem, rediscovered in the 2008 guidebook. It's a good introduction to hard slab climbing.

Climb up past horizontals to a face. Two bolts protect the face (crux, 5.10a) which leads to a horizontal break in the slab. Move right to a fixed anchor (optional belay here). Move up past a bolt and horizontal crack (crux, 5.10b) to a fixed anchor at the top.

Rappel with two ropes (or a single 80m rope).

Location

In the middle of the slab, about 20' right of a satellite dish-like scoop 3' up. There are 2 protection bolts 70' up.

Protection

Nothing large; standard rack up to #1 Camalot.

Photos

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Ross Perrot
Telluride
  5.10b
Ross Perrot   Telluride
  5.10b
A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top anchors. Sweet moves past the older first anchor. Aug 3, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
While the cliff might not be much to speak of I found this route to be excellent. A fun mix of mantles, crimps, and slab technique. I always recommend this as an underrated climb to people. If you end up setting up a TR for folks at King Phillips, take the hike over and check this one out. Aug 18, 2018