Sullivan Falls

One of the best routes in the area. The route is longer than it appears, with the crux right at the start. The first pitch pillar usually sports a fracture at 1/3 height.

Route length 240m, WI5

1:60m, WI5
A sustained pitch with possibly a short slightly overhanging section at the fracture.

2:100m+, Snow/WI2
Climb the remaining ice until reaching the snow slope. Walk up the slope in a couple rope lengths to reach the upper ice.

3:50m, WI3+
Climb the rambling ice.

4:30m, WI3
Continue up the ice and the top.

Rappel from the top until you reach the snow slope. If avalanche conditions are safe, traverse skiers right to the slope below Blue Rodeo. Follow this back to the base of the route. If conditions are bad then rappel the whole route.

Sullivan is the obvious pillar and the furthest route on the right.

Standard ice rack. All raps are from V-threads