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Routes in Bear Den

Bear Necessities T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doesn't Remind Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Bealor, Will Roth, May 23, 2016
Page Views: 216 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on May 24, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Two very good pitches that traverse a crack out to the arete left of the Yard Sale chimney, then climbs thin face, knobs, and edges up the arete and left wall.
P1 5.10c G: Climb Bear Necessities for 20’ to a right angling crack. Traverse the crack out towards the arete. Execute a tricky mantle (crux, subtle side pull) a few feet before the arete. Climb the arete and thin face to a two bolt anchor. Great position on the arete. 90’
P2 5.10b G: Follow knobs and edges past seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Some of the holds on this pitch look like they came from a “climbing hold factory”. The easiest path is not necessarily a plumb line between the bolts. 70’

Location

Start on Bear Necessities.
Two rappels from bolted anchors with a single 60M.

Protection

Gear: A "mixed" line in the Poke-O style. P1 takes cams from blue to black Metolious in the traverse crack, optional grey Aliens between bolts on the arete. P2 takes a black Metolious and a few finger sized cams.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
Hey Matt, the info in Adirondack Rock was how the route was originally attempted. It was abandoned, and later completed by Mark & Will, who used a different (and better) start. That chimney is jingus. May 2, 2017
Matt D
Jay, NY
Matt D   Jay, NY
Mark and will - great line!

It looks like there are two variations to the start of this route:

Adirondack rock 2nd print edition says this route (still a project at the time), breaks out of the yardsale chimney on a crack (the line in the book shows this about 1/2 to 2/3 of a pitch up) - consistent with the intro to your route description here "traverse a crack out to the arete left of the Yard Sale chimney, then climbs thin face".

The Adirondack rock New Routes webpage has the route starting with the bear necessities mantle (consistent with your description of P1, "Climb Bear Necessities for 20’ to a right angling crack...") May 1, 2017