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Routes in Long Branch Wall

Big Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cartography of Spirit S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dirtbag Jesus Says a Prayer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gone Sniffin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lightness, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ron Jeremy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Shorty's Lament S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Troy Johnson
Page Views: 160 total, 9/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on May 9, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Fun climb on great rock. Follow good holds in from the right to the first bolt. Find the best sequence through the crux using crimps, sloping crimps (slimps), and possibly a mono/slimp, up to a good pocket and positive crimp. There is a good right hand side-pull or left-had jug for clipping the second bolt. The rest of the climb is easier, but no gimmie, with one more harder sequence heading to the 4th bolt.

Although its a little soft in the grade, Big Johnson brings the fun.

Location

As you approach the tiered-roof of the Darkness wall from the approach trail, Big Johnson starts on the ledge just right of the main roof area. You can scramble up the the ledge from the base of the cliff through a small chimney.

Protection

4 bolts, 2-cold shut anchor.

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