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Routes in Long Branch Wall

Big Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cartography of Spirit S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dirtbag Jesus Says a Prayer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gone Sniffin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lightness, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ron Jeremy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Shorty's Lament S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Maybe the best sport climbing in the area. routes up to 80' in height.

Getting There

Drive around 4 miles into the canyon. walk up the dry creek bed until you see a cairn on the left. follow cairns up the talus slope until you reach the trail system at the base of the wall.

7 Total Climbs

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Photos

TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
If you couldn't get ahold of Mike's book, or even if you did, check out his newly released rakkup digital guide for the area rakkup.com/guidebooks/smoke… Oct 4, 2016
As an FYI for everyone, the Dark/Sunny Side walls of Long Branch (facing North and East, respectively), currently have 26 routes from 5.7 to 5.13+. Some of these are a little dusty, and the trail is still pretty rough, but IMO, this is a great place to climb. Message me and/or try to find a copy of M. Gray's book for additional information.

The Dark Side almost never gets hit with sun, although it is a bit humid in the summer. However, the river below, as well as the waterfalls in the canyon, often provide respite from the heat. Also, the Guides' Wall (park at the same spot for Long Branch and hike to the right set of cliffs, which face South and East respectively) provides heat during the colder months. The Guides's wall has roughly 25 routes from 5.8 to 5.12.

All in all, from one parking area with a 15 minute max. hike, these cliffs provide climbing in shade/sun at almost any point of the day because of cliffs facing N,E, and S. Aug 1, 2015

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