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Sunny Boy
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 17
votes
Routes in Brunser Area
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Bro, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brunser Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunny Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunny Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wakey Wakey T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Washington Bullets T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.6446, -123.2052 |
| FA: | Luc Mailloux, Tyler Slayer 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,038 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Lynne on May 4, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A short boulder move protected by the first bolt gets you onto the slab above. From here delicately move up the well featured slab to the second bolt and then to the horizontal break with a tree. Don't forget to sling the tree before continuing on up the upper slab to the third bolt. This is the mental crux of the route and it is run out. A decent small nut placement is possible just past the tree on your way to the third bolt. Easy climbing from the third bolt to the anchors.
The run outs on this climb are a bit spooky but both the upper and lower portions of the slab are well endowed with many well defined edges. The hardest move on this climb is pulling up and onto the lower slab.
A variation of this climb, Sunny Girl, goes left from the tree to another bolt. It is equally as run out but the potential fall isn't as scary.
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