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Routes in Breakfast Club Peak

5am Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackstar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Sport, 480 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gedas Simutis and Saule Zukauskaite
Page Views: 357 total · 12/month
Shared By: Patrick Betts on Apr 15, 2016
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

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5 Opinions

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Description

Although there are 6 bolted pitches it is best done in 3 or 4 pitches. Below is described in 4 pitches:

Pitch 1, 5.9: from the start of the route work your way up and left, over and around some dubious rock; around the arete to the left then up a fun and solid narrow pillar to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9+: Climb over the top of the pillar; through some vegetation as you move up and left, gaining a 2.5" to 3.5" crack in a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for not-long-enough until move left over the arete and finish up some face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor.

note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with appropriate long slings and (best to) skipping a few bolts after the pitch 1 anchors

Pitch 3+4, 5.10a + 5.9: Head straight up from, move right then move back left following the bolts. Continue up fun face climbing to reach a two bolt anchor. Continue passed this anchor, through some dirt and vegetation and climb 20 feet or some of left facing dihedral to another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5+6, 5.10b + 5.8: The whole reason why you climbed this route. Continue up for 35 meters for fun splutter left facing dihedral climbing. Skip the first 2 bolt anchor you come to and continue for 3 more bolts to the top of the route.

Location

Follow directions to Breakfast Club Peak; currently the only route here.

Protection

all bolts and two bolt anchors. Bring 18 or so quickdraws to climb it as described.

Photos

Patrick Betts
  5.10b
Patrick Betts  
  5.10b
Decently fun route; especially the last 35 meters. However, you just might end up spending more time hiking and scrambling then you will climbing the route, Apr 15, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
I found the hike and 4th-class approach to make the climb even more endearing. It's a great route for escaping the crowds, spending time amongst the local flora, getting exposed up high, staying in the shade, and getting a view of the surrounding landscape. Unfortunately the top-out is very anti-climactic. This route is a means by which to develop more - which has already happened. We didn't do it, but Black Star looks like a great way to top out the formation, even though it goes at a much higher grade. There is SO MUCH potential to either side of this route, and even below it. Jan 5, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Recommend pitching out 1 and 2, then linking 3+4, 5+6. This will require around 18 draws. Also, a 70m allows you to combine the 5+6 rap, but nothing else. The P2 rap requires a significant rightward traverse which is a total pain in the ass. Don't simul-rap this one and make sure to use a third-hand backup! Jan 5, 2018

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