Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Breakfast Club Peak

5am Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackstar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 480 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gedas Simutis and Saule Zukauskaite
Page Views: 216 total, 11/month
Shared By: Patrick Betts on Apr 15, 2016
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Although there are 6 bolted pitches it is best done in 3 or 4 pitches. Below is described in 4 pitches:

Pitch 1, 5.9: from the start of the route work your way up and left, over and around some dubious rock; around the arete to the left then up a fun and solid narrow pillar to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9+: Climb over the top of the pillar; through some vegetation as you move up and left, gaining a 2.5" to 3.5" crack in a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for not-long-enough until move left over the arete and finish up some face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor.

note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with appropriate long slings and (best to) skipping a few bolts after the pitch 1 anchors

Pitch 3+4, 5.10a + 5.9: Head straight up from, move right then move back left following the bolts. Continue up fun face climbing to reach a two bolt anchor. Continue passed this anchor, through some dirt and vegetation and climb 20 feet or some of left facing dihedral to another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5+6, 5.10b + 5.8: The whole reason why you climbed this route. Continue up for 35 meters for fun splutter left facing dihedral climbing. Skip the first 2 bolt anchor you come to and continue for 3 more bolts to the top of the route.

Location

Follow directions to Breakfast Club Peak; currently the only route here.

Protection

all bolts and two bolt anchors. Bring 18 or so quickdraws to climb it as described.
Decently fun route; especially the last 35 meters. However, you just might end up spending more time hiking and scrambling then you will climbing the route, Apr 15, 2016