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5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 28 votes
Type: | Sport, 480 ft (145 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Gedas Simutis and Saule Zukauskaite |
Page Views: | 2,020 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Betts on Apr 15, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
Although there are 6 bolted pitches it is best done in 3 or 4 pitches. Below is described in 4 pitches:
Pitch 1, 5.9: from the start of the route work your way up and left, over and around some dubious rock; around the arete to the left then up a fun and solid narrow pillar to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 5.9+: Climb over the top of the pillar; through some vegetation as you move up and left, gaining a 2.5" to 3.5" crack in a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for not-long-enough until move left over the arete and finish up some face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor.
note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with appropriate long slings and (best to) skipping a few bolts after the pitch 1 anchors
Pitch 3+4, 5.10a + 5.9: Head straight up from, move right then move back left following the bolts. Continue up fun face climbing to reach a two bolt anchor. Continue passed this anchor, through some dirt and vegetation and climb 20 feet or some of left facing dihedral to another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5+6, 5.10b + 5.8: The whole reason why you climbed this route. Continue up for 35 meters for fun splutter left facing dihedral climbing. Skip the first 2 bolt anchor you come to and continue for 3 more bolts to the top of the route.
Descent: Rap the route. Once you are back at the base of the climb you can either downclimb the fourth section below the route or rappel using the tat anchor around a boulder. If you use this anchor rap to the north in the direction you came up not to the east down another gully.
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