Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Elwhall

A Walk in the Field S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
All-View Motel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Leg Emma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Breeze, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzz Away AKA Hollywood Dyno S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangerous Kitchen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Earth and Sky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Empty Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get A Handle On It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomer's Epic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Goes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jason aka Proon aka Reciprocity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leave it to Cleaver S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mooshki TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
One Shot Deal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Panasonic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penguins in Bondage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prememorial Mikey Cooter Headbanger Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Project: Prodigal Daughter S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
San Ber'dino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slappin Skeeters S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slappin Skeeters alternate start AKA piton Route S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tender Hearts Break Easy AKA Broken Hearts are for Assholes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trench, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweener S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
V, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Kevin Rose
Page Views: 148 total, 8/month
Shared By: Scott Underwood on Apr 14, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I haven't climbed this because in years past it was sooo dirty. Recently cleaned up by local climber and developer, Dennis (he also did all the rock work at the base of the routes).

Protection

QDs

Photos

- No Photos -
Tim Spenser  
 
Climbed this yesterday, although I'm not totally certain that this is the route I was on since the route descriptions are so sparse. Interesting movements and cool variation in the rock, but the route is extremely dirty and clearly not climbed often (and often not completed when climbed: bail-'biners on the 4th,5th,6th, and 7th bolts).

Getting to the anchors (on what I gather is the "Pizza Pie" ledge) requires a committing and airy traverse with ample hands and minimal feet out right and up onto the ledge. The moves are cool, but the location of the anchors way out to the right of the main line makes cleaning this route difficult and frustrating. Anchor chains would have been better placed on the huge ledge encountered before the last three bolts.

The rock quality, especially low down, leaves something to be desired. Lots of the big flakes were ready to pull out of the wall. A sizable one (1' x 2'?) came loose around the first bolt while I was on rappel, narrowly missing my belayer and possibly affecting the route grade.

Again, not 100% certain that the route I'm describing is 'Flakes.' In any case, although the climbing itself was fun, the combination of sketchy rock and infuriating anchor placement means I won't be repeating this one. Jul 16, 2017