High Tension
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 37.51102, -118.5703 |
| FA: | Kevin Leary / Joe Rousek |
| Page Views: | 6,391 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Feb 23, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.



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