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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Cunning Rock, Southeast Face
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Cheese Grater, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Cunning Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fissure Merde T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gila Monster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jarhead Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Never Cry Louie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pull S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Save the Ales T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wild Brew Yonder T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00274, -116.057 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,231 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Kelly Corbin on Feb 20, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pull up on less than stellar rock while using careful feet placement to reach the first bolt. Surf the dike up past two more bolts until you have to pull a strenuous move to reach the corner. Holds between bolts one and four are fantastic, while the last portion of the climb is a little gritty but very easy climbing.
Location
Approx 400 yards north of Save the Ales, or 75 yards north of Gila Monster. If walking in from the south, you get to the last rock that looks like it could host a real climb, and there's a low-lying, rounded blob yet to the north -- it's on the NE corner of this blob. Route starts in a notch, and finishes above a medium-sized juniper. It follows a blocky prominent dike. If this route is your first or only destination on Cunning Rock, it's much faster to come in from the N or E. Shade all day.
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