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Routes in Wallflower Wall

Alt-Frack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cherry Buster S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
European Sweethart TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Imaginary Girlfriend T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imported Women S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Miner Slab S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poker Face S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scott's Route (a.k.a.) S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Social Anxiety S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wallflower S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 134 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jamie K. on Jan 30, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Moderate climbing through 4 bolts. Anchors are located at top of black streak up and right of bolt 4. After clipping bolt 4 heading directly to the anchors is much more difficult than any previous moves. To stay at the 5.8 grade, either work right to the shallow dihedral, or left to the vertical crack at the top of European Sweetheart. Then top out to reach the anchors.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Bring slings to extend over the edge.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.9
Karl Kiser  
  5.9
The moves to the first bolt are more like 5.9 than 5.8. Indeed to keep the route at a moderate grade one must go left or right at the fourth bolt. The old guide book states the moves above the last bolt to be 5.11. Jan 18, 2017