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Routes in Weathertop

El Nino T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eye of the Storm S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galadriel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gale Force T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incredible Huck S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Millertime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Nancy Boy's Nightmare T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nancy's Wet Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Storm S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shin Pfein T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Storm Front S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under The Weather T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weathering The Storm S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wilard Scott's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Will It Or Won't It? S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: SG,JJ '82
Page Views: 129 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jon Ruland on Nov 14, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

On the far right side of Weathertop is a north facing wall split on the right side by a nice-looking crack. This is the upper section of Millertime and it is noteworthy because it is a very fine crack climb by Mount Lemmon standards.

The full route is R-rated and has no fixed anchors. however, you can do Guinness Stout, the bolted 10- to the left of it, and toprope the crack by placing a #3 or #4 cam up high as a directional. If you like crack climbing it's worth getting on this, even if the crack itself is only ~5.8. There are sinker hand jams and solid fist jams to be had, and the face holds are only big enough for feet.

Protection

Standard Lemmon rack with multiple #3s and probably at least one #4.

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Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
nah eric i personally think the "just skip the bolts" argument is BS, the same as you. it sounds like you really don't want bolts added either. i was considering adding just the anchors after talking to you last night over email. maybe i'll do that. Nov 15, 2015
Or, you could up your game until you can lead it Jon. You want to make it leadable for you by adding bolts. You justify this because there are not many cracks in Tucson. If we dumb down every route that many of us are not ready to lead what will the people who want to test themselves have. Please don't give me the "they can just skip the bolts" argument. You were able to TR it. Others can do the same. I don't think anyone would mind if you added lower off anchors. Just be sure and get them in the right place. Nov 15, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
i'm going to contact the FA to get his thoughts on adding some fixed anchors and a bolt or two. this route is kind of a hidden jewel for crack climbers and it would be nice to make it a bit more accessible. Nov 14, 2015