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Shared By: eMurdock on May 29, 2004
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The Weathertop is the impressive, west facing cliff seen from the road about a mile or so before the pay booth. It is the largest cliff around, consistently over 100 feet tall. It saw a couple FAs in the early 80's but was really developed in 1998 (although a couple routes have been established since the latest edition of Squeezing the Lemmon).

It is usefull to fix a single line on one of the rap anchors to ease the descent if you plan on doing more than one route.

Getting There

Park at the parking lot before the pay booth. This is the same parking as for the Ruins, It Cliff and Club Med. Hike down the old road (heads north for 100 yds), across the creek (sometime flowing), and up the climbers trail to the east. Hike uphill for 15 minutes until the ridge is reached. Turn left for The Ruins and right for the Weathertop. Follow the good trail up the ridge until you reach a flat slabby section on the right, near the end of the ridge. This is the top of the Weathertop. Either rap from one of the anchors or hike down the right (north) side of the cliff. The approach takes 30 minutes or so.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Weathertop

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Five years have passed since Squeezing the Lemmon II came out. The routes at Weathertop have cleaned up nicely and all of the hidden pro placements (hard to find if you didn't rap the route) have had a bolt placed. This is a must visit cliff at this point. The hike is a bit long but is fairly flat once you reach the ridge top. You will be well rewarded for your effort. Mar 11, 2006
"Lair of the Cupacabra" has not had any additional bolts added. It is still a lead with tricky route finding. If your 20 feet out on 5.12 you are off route. If you follow the gear placements and the occasional bolt this route is not run out.

Between "Lair of the Cubacabra" and "Shin Pfein" there is a hard, crimpy, technical and sustained 12b sport route.

"Under the Weather" is now 5.11- with great gear. A Mt. Lemmon must do for any Trad climber. Also a set of chains has been added at the ledge above the roof. You can now lower to the ground with a 60 meter rope.

Between "Nancy Boys Nightmare" and "Precipitation" a .10b sport route has been added. Good climbing and a good warm up for the harder stuff.

Between "Powder Free Forecast" and "Mail Man's Credo" there is an .11c/d sport route. Tricky, multiple cruxes on the upper headwall take you to the chains.

Also, chains have been added to the top of "Powder Free Forecast"

Go, have fun, this is a great cliff!!
Apr 3, 2006
As someone who mostly belays and follows my stronger partners, i hardly ever use a helmet for belaying, but it seemed like some of the routes on the south part of the wall had an awful lot of stuff falling down, at least as of the time of this posting. So i think this is a crag, where if you are "on the fence" about bringing a helmet as a belayer, this might be the wall to bring one. In several years of belaying on Lemmon, i had my biggest rock ever fall towards me this past week at Weathertop. Good crag though, with a helluva view and a mild approach. Feb 19, 2008
Very few people make the hump up to this formation.
That said, the rock on the left side of this formation is a bit on the crumbly side, at least for the first 40 feet or so. The father right one travels the better the rock gets.
Keep in mind two of the better gear climbs on the Lemmon are here, Under the Weather and Willard Scott's Crack. Sep 8, 2008
FWIW: I know Steve Grossman was pretty proud of the lines he put up out here (mostly with Peter, I think ?)

He told me they were decent test pieces....
Reminds me of that old Merrill Lynch commercial,
when Steve talks about test pieces, most climbers run the other way.

Maybe that accounts for some of the delay in developing the area.

Not to take anything at all away from the hard working lads who developed the place, but one shouldn't forget that SG stomped out here in the late '80s and put up some decent climbs. Off the top of my head, I can't recall if they made it into Steiger's guide or not. Feb 9, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Steve's climbs are in SQ. the Lemmon II. It is surprising that he didn't put up more routes but the approach is a tad long and there was so much rock a lot closer to the road. Most of the routes are safer compared to Steve's day but they are a little spicy by todays standards. You would like it there PD. Feb 9, 2009
When Dean Brault and I showed up at Weather Top in 1998/99 Galadriel was the first line we did. (Great minds think alike) I drilled two bolts while leading it and I still thought it was an R route. We also cleaned all the loose stuff off.
A year later when Peter and EFR came out to check out all the new stuff Peter pointed out that Steve and he had done Galadriel years earlier and requested we chop the two bolts, which we did.
I top roped this line again last week. Without the two bolts it's a solid R/X route with real 5.10 climbing way out above the few bits of gear you get. (I just noticed EFR doesn't have it as and R/X in the guide I'll have him change that)
It's a great line that no one will ever lead. Especially since there are so many other great lines there now that are safe.
Steve was/is a bad ass but it's a shame such a sweet line will never get climbed.
Miller Time, the other SG route at Weather Top got led by Dave Marin last week. He said the gear was fine and it would be a good route with a good bit of clean up and chains to lower so you don't have to belay on the large rock pile that is the top of the tower. Nov 24, 2011