All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 1 - Lower Highway > Weathertop
Under The Weather
Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Brault, Scott; 1998|
|Page Views:||912 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||eMurdock on Jun 1, 2004|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionUnder The Weather is an under-appreciated, underground classic. Located just right of center on the Weathertop, Under The Weather climbs the impressive dihedral to roof crack visible from the highway. Start in a chossy wider crack that turns into a steep, finger-to-hands crack. The steep, left-facing dihedral curves left to form a large roof. Traverse left under the roof with good protection. Pull the roof on positive holds above a large pocket and continue on unprotected, easier face climbing to a two bolt anchor. Squeezing the Lemmon suggests a #2 Camalot to protect the roof move. The #2 does not actually fit that well although another piece (perhaps a hex?) may be more suitable.
The climb was originally rated 11d although it has gotten much easier as it has cleaned up considerably (11a or even 10d). Dean got the FA during a powerful onsight effort. He cleaned the steep finger crack as he climbed, and pulled the roof without knowing what was above. It was apparently an awesome exhibition of endurance and composure. This climb is one of the best cracks for the grade and will continue to get better as the lower section cleans up. Similar in difficulty and quality to Credibility Gap and It Crack.