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Routes in The Black Jack Pot

Ante Up V8-9 7B+
Black Jack Pot Arete V6 7A PG13
Black Jack Pot, The V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 204 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Madsen on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This problem is V6/9. It is a V6 if you stand using the "credit card" crimp. The V9 starts low on a crimp with your right and the obvious with your left. Pull up and use your left to work the sloper feature. Right hand bumps up on some small crimps. Move up to the credit card crimp and throw your left to the decent scrubbed hold out left. Mantle using small crystals. Great full value problem. One of the best in the area!

Location

To the left of The Black Jack pot V7.

Protection

Crash pads 2 min. Would be good

Photos

Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
Sounds right. Just maybe I didn't start correctly. Left should be either lower or matched on start hold. I'm just hitting first sloper and my right I moved to the hold by head in pic. Oct 19, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
It's coming back to me... Fairly positive from the low position, I made a move up and left to a crimp, then made a hard move with my right to another crimp (kind of like a gaston, maybe??). From there I reached straight left to the slopey sidepull, moved my right foot to the good foothold (like in the picture) and deadpointed to the credit card. I think the holds I'm talking about can be seen by Mike's head in the 2nd photo. So, to start you would just need to shift about a body width to the right. Isn't climbing fun? Oct 19, 2015
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
You may have started one move lower with the left possibly I'll have to go see if it goes lower! No Greg than you for establishing these great lines! Oct 19, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Then you were probably fine. When I first read the description, it sounded like it said to start with your left on the side pull. I definitely moved into it... Not important. It's just fun to remember the moves on these great problems. Thanks for posting them. Oct 19, 2015
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
I tried from the lowest that I could see really low. Also the same with blackjackpot I imagine. We started that pretty much laying down throwing up to some crimps. Oct 19, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I started this problem REALLY low, almost laying down. Ha. I started with two flat edges, made a move up and right to a decent edge (maybe with a left hand move before???). From there, I reached over left to get the slopey sidepull, deadpointed to the credit card crimp, and finished as you described. Maybe a bit silly, but I think it adds to the difficulty. Oct 19, 2015