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Routes in Foreign Territory

Beaver, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Gapsby, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Japan Club T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nasty Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Topside The Daisies S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Walking up to Zion T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Thing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 31 July 2014, Ben Boykin/Robert Kelman
Page Views: 85 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ben Boykin on Oct 16, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

P1. Begin low on the right side of the Southwest Buttress by entering a flared V-slot. Heel-toe works best here. Wallow upwards, then span the gap to a grassy trough beneath the crux offwidth chimney. It is best to belay here, so the leader's screams & cries can be heard.

P2. Climb the offwidth chimney.

Exit either left or right at the end of difficulties.

Location

Approach: park at the lower Central Area parking lot, and hike in from the West trailhead of the Turtle Rock trail. Continue 50 yards past Holy Saturday, and the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory will be to your immediate right.

Protection

Gear: a standard Vedauwoo rack. A #4½ and two #5 Camalots would be comforting here.

Descent option left: climb up to and squeeze between the upper boulders to access Topside The Daisies' anchor bolts (45 foot rappel, then scrambling).

Descent option right: climb a short crack to a small ledge on the upper right and a 2-bolt anchor (~60 foot rappel due East, or ~90 foot rappel down the broad rib).

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