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Routes in Foreign Territory

Beaver, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Gapsby, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Japan Club T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nasty Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Topside The Daisies S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Walking up to Zion T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Thing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul Piana, Mark Ilgner, 1983
Page Views: 413 total · 4/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Japan Club has three distinct sections: flared fingers, flared hands, and a lieback. The opening flared finger portion is thin and balancy, but will accept reasonable pro in the form of stoppers and small cams. After overcoming the thin crux, enjoy a short section of good flared hands (in both main crack and side crack) before the crack peters out. Good foot cams move you into position to grasp the semi-solid lieback and high step on decent feet to glory.

Location

Located 40 yards to the right of Wild Thing. We walked off by climbing almost to the top of the crag and traversing climber's left, eventually downclimbing as per Walking Up to Zion and Wild Thing.

Protection

Set of stoppers, small cams. A BD #4 can be placed in the roof next to main crack if the small pro doesn't ease your mind.

Photos

bart cubrich 1
  5.10+
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10+
Stopper protect the main crack pretty well after you do the crux. Apr 8, 2015

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