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Routes in Foreign Territory
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Beaver, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Gapsby, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Japan Club T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nasty Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Topside The Daisies S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Walking up to Zion T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Thing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | 16 Sept 2014, Ben Boykin/Robert Kelman |
| Page Views: | 81 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Boykin on Oct 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description
This is on the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory (left-hand side of FT's little canyon area), directly above the Turtle Rock Trail.
After a scramble (easiest from the left) to the spacious belay ledge, begin slightly lower & sidle into the opening moves, placing small/medium gear as you wallow deeper, taking care not to break the delicate ribs beneath your feet. Move through the chimney-like gash to the crux finger crack. Surmount the chockstone to the final hand-crack finish (right side) onto a shelf. Gear belay.
Descent: one can maneuver to the Topside the Daisies anchor to the climber's right of the exit chimney, or discover a walk-off toward the North.
Likely this route has been climbed before.
After a scramble (easiest from the left) to the spacious belay ledge, begin slightly lower & sidle into the opening moves, placing small/medium gear as you wallow deeper, taking care not to break the delicate ribs beneath your feet. Move through the chimney-like gash to the crux finger crack. Surmount the chockstone to the final hand-crack finish (right side) onto a shelf. Gear belay.
Descent: one can maneuver to the Topside the Daisies anchor to the climber's right of the exit chimney, or discover a walk-off toward the North.
Likely this route has been climbed before.
Location
Approach: park at the lower Central Area parking lot, and hike in from the West trailhead of the Turtle Rock trail. Continue 50 yards past Holy Saturday, and the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory will be to your immediate right.
Trivia: named for an exclamation during an early foray. "Look," said Squeak, pointing to the pond across the trail, "a beaver...."
Trivia: named for an exclamation during an early foray. "Look," said Squeak, pointing to the pond across the trail, "a beaver...."
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