Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: J Laing and D Turner
Page Views: 300 total · 8/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

There is a great hold in the crack to the left of the first bolt that is great for clipping the high first bolt. Taking the direct line up the front of the blunt arête makes for harder climbing than the right face of the arête. The crux is near the second bolt.

This route, as well as the next three can be accessed from the top by scrambling (4th class) behind the large boulder pile above Big Hilda, but it’s not as easy to set up top ropes on these as it is for the routes to the left as you face the wall. One should probably set up a rappel anchor to do this and exercise caution.

Location

On the arête between the two major slab formations.

Protection

4 bolts and chain anchors with lowering biners

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.9
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.9
The direct climbing above the first bolt on the arete is the better climbing movement. Jan 19, 2016
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.8-
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.8-
I agree with Karl - If you force yourself onto the hard line, than this is 5.9, that is certainly the better climbing, but since easier climbing is within the bolt line, it is a little bit of a contrivance to call this a 5.9.

Choose your own adventure - easy line to the right is probably 5.7/5.8

Good route nonetheless, well bolted (not too much, not too little) Jun 4, 2017