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Routes in Scarry Wall

Scott Ain't Got Time For That S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5 Seater Pencil Car S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babooby S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baron Von Crow S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear Hugging Big Hilda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beverly Baboon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dingo Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Future Primitive S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Huckle Cat S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Kitty Loves Pickles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Gronkle’'s Giveaway S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Officer Flossie S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pie Rats Ahoy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snozzle S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terrible Dragon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wonder Showzen S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: John Laing and Dan Turner
Page Views: 233 total, 9/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

There is a great hold in the crack to the left of the first bolt that is great for clipping the high first bolt. Taking the direct line up the front of the blunt arête makes for harder climbing than the right face of the arête. The crux is near the second bolt.

This route, as well as the next three can be accessed from the top by scrambling (4th class) behind the large boulder pile above Big Hilda, but it’s not as easy to set up top ropes on these as it is for the routes to the left as you face the wall. One should probably set up a rappel anchor to do this and exercise caution.

Location

On the arête between the two major slab formations.

Protection

4 bolts and chain anchors with lowering biners

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis
  5.8-
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.8-
I agree with Karl - If you force yourself onto the hard line, than this is 5.9, that is certainly the better climbing, but since easier climbing is within the bolt line, it is a little bit of a contrivance to call this a 5.9.

Choose your own adventure - easy line to the right is probably 5.7/5.8

Good route nonetheless, well bolted (not too much, not too little) Jun 4, 2017
Karl Kiser
  5.9
Karl Kiser  
  5.9
The direct climbing above the first bolt on the arete is the better climbing movement. Jan 19, 2016