Elevation: 5,693 ft
GPS: 33.986, -106.995 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,981 total · 360/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Scarry Wall (a.k.a. Hidden Wall, a.k.a. Gateway Wall) [Topo .pdf] consists of a handful of easy sport and trad slab routes. The rock quality is generally stable. A lot of route cleaning has been done, but caution should be exercised when accessing top anchors as to not drop loose rock on people below. This crag is perfect for the aspiring lead climber as it has several routes grade 5.9 and under, and it's well protected. The base of the climbing is flat, shaded by bushes, and makes a great place for kids and dogs to run around.

Don't be fooled by the crag's name, which is in honor of the children's book author Richard Scarry. Many of the route are named after his characters. This wall is anything but scary.

Abridged History (thanks to Bob Broilo): Most of these lines were done on natural pro in the 90's by climbers such as Andy Mayer or Talon Newton, and more recently, Victor Alvidrez and Bob Broilo. On one of them (named "Sangre de Andy" for the blood stain that marked the bottom for years) Andy Mayer almost died when a hold broke sending him crashing 40' feet down the rock, stopping 6-8 feet from the ground! Andy returned later to send the line. Some of these routes have also been bouldered (boldly) or soloed. Since the specifics of much of this history has been lost, the FAs are listed as those who established permanent anchors on the routes with full recognition that all of these lines have been done many times before.

The initial development involved three bolted sport lines installed on the far right side of the crag, established by Scott Roberts, Bob Broilo, Katie Sauer, and Jason Hebert. John Laing and Dan Turner bolted several more in the spring of 2015, followed by a handful of additions by Vaino Kodas and doni. Six more routes were added in various spots among the crag by Lin Robinson, John Laing and Dan Turner in the Winter of 2017.

There is a V3+ traverse called Sangre de Lizard that traverses all the major rock outcrops. Bring water and comfy shoes...

Scarry Wall Topo

Routes as viewed from above

Getting There

The trail to Scarry Wall begins across from Major Wall on the other side of the dirt road, where the road forks. Park along the side of the road at the fork and head in the opposite direction as Major Wall. The hike takes about 10 minutes and is marked by cairns.

(March 2018) There's a fork in the trail to Scarry Wall about half way to the wall, just before the crest of the gradual rise. Take the right branch to get to Scarry Wall. The left branch eventually intersects the trail that leads to Alf Rig.

Map to Scarry Wall

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scarry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Dingo Dog
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Beverly Baboon
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 30
Lowly Worm's Applecopter Express
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
5 Seater Pencil Car
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Goldbug
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Officer Flossie
Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 30
Snozzle
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Bear Hugging Big Hilda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a…
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Fox
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Baron Von Crow
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 34
Future Primitive
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Scott Ain't Got Time For That
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Pie Rats Ahoy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dingo Dog
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Beverly Baboon
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lowly Worm's Applecopter Ex…
 30
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport, TR
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the…
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
5 Seater Pencil Car
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Goldbug
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Officer Flossie
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Snozzle
 30
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Bear Hugging Big Hilda
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Fun Than Three Monkeys…
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fox
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Baron Von Crow
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Future Primitive
 34
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Scott Ain't Got Time For That
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pie Rats Ahoy
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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