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Routes in Scarry Wall

Scott Ain't Got Time For That S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5 Seater Pencil Car S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babooby S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baron Von Crow S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear Hugging Big Hilda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beverly Baboon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dingo Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Future Primitive S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Huckle Cat S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Kitty Loves Pickles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Gronkle’'s Giveaway S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Officer Flossie S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pie Rats Ahoy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snozzle S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terrible Dragon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wonder Showzen S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Elevation: 5,693 ft
GPS: 33.986, -106.995 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Scarry Wall (a.k.a. Hidden Wall, a.k.a. Gateway Wall) consists of a handful of easy sport and trad slab routes. The rock quality is generally stable. A lot of route cleaning has been done, but caution should be exercised when accessing top anchors as to not drop loose rock on people below. This crag is perfect for the aspiring lead climber as it has several routes grade 5.9 and under, and it's well protected. The base of the climbing is flat, shaded by bushes, and makes a great place for kids and dogs to run around.

Don't be fooled by the crag's name, which is in honor of the children's book author Richard Scarry. Many of the route are named after his characters. This wall is anything but scary.

Abridged History (thanks to Bob Broilo): Most of these lines were done on natural pro in the 90’s by climbers such as Andy Mayer or Talon Newton, and more recently, Victor Alvidrez and Bob Broilo. On one of them (named “Sangre de Andy” for the blood stain that marked the bottom for years) Andy Mayer almost died when a hold broke sending him crashing 40’ feet down the rock, stopping 6-8 feet from the ground! Andy returned later to send the line. Some of these routes have also been bouldered (boldly) or soloed. Since the specifics of much of this history has been lost, the FAs are listed as those who established permanent anchors on the routes with full recognition that all of these lines have been done many times before.

The initial development involved three bolted sport lines installed on the far right side of the crag, established by Scott Roberts, Bob Broilo, Katie Sauer, and Jason Hebert. John Laing and Dan Turner bolted several more in the spring of 2015, followed by a handful of additions by Vaino Kodas and doni. Six more routes were added in various spots among the crag by Lin Robinson, John Laing and Dan Turner in the Winter of 2017.

There is a V3+ traverse called Sangre de Lizard that traverses all the major rock outcrops. Bring water and comfy shoes...

Getting There

The trail to Scarry Wall begins across from Major Wall on the other side of the dirt road, where the road forks. Park along the side of the road at the fork and head in the opposite direction as Major Wall. The hike takes about 10 minutes and is marked by cairns.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scarry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Huckle Cat
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dingo Dog
Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5 Seater Pencil Car
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Snozzle
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wonder Showzen
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear Hugging Big Hilda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bana…
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fox
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baron Von Crow
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Future Primitive
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scott Ain't Got Time For That
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pie Rats Ahoy
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terrible Dragon
Sport
Huckle Cat 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport, TR
Dingo Dog 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter E… 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport, TR
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
5 Seater Pencil Car 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Snozzle 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Wonder Showzen 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Bear Hugging Big Hilda 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Fun Than Three Monkeys… 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fox 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Baron Von Crow 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Future Primitive 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Scott Ain't Got Time For That 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pie Rats Ahoy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Terrible Dragon 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Scarry Wall »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Great wall to get a bunch of easy to moderate climbs in - stays shady all morning. Good place to get a feel for the climbing style at The Box. Jun 4, 2017
The rock here is surprisingly good. With a short, flat approach, this is a good area for beginners and kids. The start of the climbs is the generally the crux with easier, more run-out sections above. Mar 31, 2017
doni
NM
doni   NM
If you are uncomfortable with high first bolts, you may want to bring a stick clip. Jan 2, 2017
Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
Minor correction - the crag is on the west side of the road, not the south. It faces west, not south, also Sep 23, 2016
Sunshine on the rock in winter is approximately 10:30 am until 3:30 pm. Jan 19, 2016
The crag is a great addition to Socorro climbing. The trail goes away from Major Wall, south, right around the hill and then left onto slabs and into a small drainage.

The cliff is relatively long and faces generally south. There are three general sections as one walks from northwest to southeast: 1) a slab portion; 2) a jumble portion; 3) a steeper portion.

Climbs are roughly 30 to 60 feet in height with painted bolts and usually chain anchors. The rock is quite good, especially for Socorrro.

There are three routes in the taller slab area. Nov 30, 2015

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