Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Scarry Wall

5 Seater Pencil Car S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babooby S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babykins S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baron Von Crow S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear Hugging Big Hilda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beverly Baboon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dingo Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingers the Octopus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Future Primitive S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Heehaw Donkey S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Huckle Cat S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Kitty Loves Pickles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bananamobile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr. Gronkle’'s Giveaway S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Officer Flossie S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pie Rats Ahoy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scott Ain't Got Time For That S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Snozzle S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Terrible Dragon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wonder Showzen S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 5,693 ft
GPS: 33.986, -106.995 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,034 total · 239/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Scarry Wall (a.k.a. Hidden Wall, a.k.a. Gateway Wall) consists of a handful of easy sport and trad slab routes. The rock quality is generally stable. A lot of route cleaning has been done, but caution should be exercised when accessing top anchors as to not drop loose rock on people below. This crag is perfect for the aspiring lead climber as it has several routes grade 5.9 and under, and it's well protected. The base of the climbing is flat, shaded by bushes, and makes a great place for kids and dogs to run around.

Don't be fooled by the crag's name, which is in honor of the children's book author Richard Scarry. Many of the route are named after his characters. This wall is anything but scary.

Abridged History (thanks to Bob Broilo): Most of these lines were done on natural pro in the 90’s by climbers such as Andy Mayer or Talon Newton, and more recently, Victor Alvidrez and Bob Broilo. On one of them (named “Sangre de Andy” for the blood stain that marked the bottom for years) Andy Mayer almost died when a hold broke sending him crashing 40’ feet down the rock, stopping 6-8 feet from the ground! Andy returned later to send the line. Some of these routes have also been bouldered (boldly) or soloed. Since the specifics of much of this history has been lost, the FAs are listed as those who established permanent anchors on the routes with full recognition that all of these lines have been done many times before.

The initial development involved three bolted sport lines installed on the far right side of the crag, established by Scott Roberts, Bob Broilo, Katie Sauer, and Jason Hebert. John Laing and Dan Turner bolted several more in the spring of 2015, followed by a handful of additions by Vaino Kodas and doni. Six more routes were added in various spots among the crag by Lin Robinson, John Laing and Dan Turner in the Winter of 2017.

There is a V3+ traverse called Sangre de Lizard that traverses all the major rock outcrops. Bring water and comfy shoes...

Scarry Wall area map

Updated topo showing three new routes 3/18/2017

Getting There

The trail to Scarry Wall begins across from Major Wall on the other side of the dirt road, where the road forks. Park along the side of the road at the fork and head in the opposite direction as Major Wall. The hike takes about 10 minutes and is marked by cairns.

(March 2018) There's a fork in the trail to Scarry Wall about half way to the wall, just before the crest of the gradual rise. Take the right branch to get to Scarry Wall. The left branch eventually intersects the trail that leads to Alf Rig.

Map to Scarry Wall

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Scarry Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Scarry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's Sleigh)
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Dingo Dog
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter Express
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the Loops
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
5 Seater Pencil Car
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Officer Flossie
Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 16
Snozzle
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 9
Wonder Showzen
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Bear Hugging Big Hilda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
More Fun Than Three Monkeys in a Bana…
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Baron Von Crow
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 15
Future Primitive
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Scott Ain't Got Time For That
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Pie Rats Ahoy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Terrible Dragon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Fixit (Breaks Santa's S…
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Dingo Dog
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Lowly Worm’'s Applecopter E…
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Rudolf von Flugel Loops the…
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
5 Seater Pencil Car
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Officer Flossie
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Snozzle
 16
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Wonder Showzen
 9
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Bear Hugging Big Hilda
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Fun Than Three Monkeys…
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Baron Von Crow
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Future Primitive
 15
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Scott Ain't Got Time For That
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Pie Rats Ahoy
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Terrible Dragon
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Scarry Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The crag is a great addition to Socorro climbing. The trail goes away from Major Wall, south, right around the hill and then left onto slabs and into a small drainage.

The cliff is relatively long and faces generally south. There are three general sections as one walks from northwest to southeast: 1) a slab portion; 2) a jumble portion; 3) a steeper portion.

Climbs are roughly 30 to 60 feet in height with painted bolts and usually chain anchors. The rock is quite good, especially for Socorrro.

There are three routes in the taller slab area. Nov 30, 2015
Sunshine on the rock in winter is approximately 10:30 am until 3:30 pm. Jan 19, 2016
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
Minor correction - the crag is on the west side of the road, not the south. It faces west, not south, also Sep 23, 2016
doni
NM
doni   NM
If you are uncomfortable with high first bolts, you may want to bring a stick clip. Jan 2, 2017
The rock here is surprisingly good. With a short, flat approach, this is a good area for beginners and kids. The start of the climbs is the generally the crux with easier, more run-out sections above. Mar 31, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
Great wall to get a bunch of easy to moderate climbs in - stays shady all morning. Good place to get a feel for the climbing style at The Box. Jun 4, 2017

More About Scarry Wall

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (4)

All Photos Within Scarry Wall (56)

Most Popular · Newest · Random